Académie Desprez

This project proposes to organize for year 2000 the visit in France of a dressmaker of the Workshop of Costumes of Drottningholm. During this visit the prize winner will pay visits of museums (Musée de la mode et du costumes, Musée de la Toile de Jouy, Opéra de Versailles, Musée des Invalides), will take part in workshops (embroidery) and will meet costume designers.

The objective is to make it possible to the prize winner to look further into his knowledge of the costumes and the French fashion, from an artistic point of view as well as from a technical point of view. The prize winner will focus more particularly on XVIIIth century.

1.2. Returned file

The prize winner will realize a file on the French costume in XVIIIth century. Either this file will present a global vision over this period or it will relate to a more specific study.

The final choice of the topic will be decided out in dialogue between the prize winner (according to his centers of interest), the Desprez Academy and the Workshop of Costumes of Drottningholm.

The file containing fabrics, sketches and a report will be copied in five specimens.

1.3. Technical notes

Duration : 10 days (from Saturday to the following Sunday)
Period: October/November
Lodging: at a member of the Academy
Dealt with: daily by the members of the Academy
Expenses : museums tickets, transport in Paris and meals will be paid by the prize winner.
(to be supplemented)

1.4. Schedule

The dates of the stay will be decided according to the possibilities of the prize winner and the dates of the considered exhibitions and shows. The schedule below gives a progress report on the exhibitions. It gives us elements for a first choice.

The detailed schedule of the stay will have to be carried out according to the various elements gathered below.

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2. Museums

Two types of museums are considered :

museums of general interest " impossible to avoid ",
specialized museums.

According to the period of arrival in France of the prize winner, temporary exhibitions in these museums could be included in the visits, depending on their relevance with the objective of the project.

2.1. Museums of general interest

The three following museums will give the prize winner a solid base which will enable him to approach the other visits with a sufficient background :

the Louvre, with including especially paintings of XVIIIth century,
the Palace of Versailles,
the Tessin Institute (Swedish Arts centre).

For each museum, an appendix gathering the technical details (time, price...) is attached to this document (to be supplemented).

2.2. Specialized museums

The following museums are particularly relevant to the objective of the project :

the Fashion and Textile Museum in the Louvre,
the Galliéra Costume and Fashion Museum in Paris,
the Toile de Jouy Museum, in Paris area,
the Historical Museum of Fabrics in Lyon,
the Museum of Impression on Fabrics in Mulhouse,
the Museum of the Fans in Paris,
the Museum of the Art and Lace in Alençon.

A choice among these museums will be carried out because it will not be possible, in term of time and expenses, to visit all of them, especially for the museums not located in the Paris area.

For each museum, an appendix gathering the technical details (time, price...) is attached to this document (to be supplemented).

2.3. Temporary exhibitions

The temporary exhibitions considered are described in each museum appendix. The dates and their relevance are to be taken into account to determine the dates of the stay of the prize winner. The planning of chapter 1 allows us to visualize the overall problem of the dates.

To date, the most relevant exhibitions are :

the exhibition of the Fashion Museum of the Louvre,
the exhibition of the Galliera Museum,
the exhibition on opera costumes of the Museum of Lyon.

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3. Meetings

The prize winner will meet the following costume designers :

Yvonne Sassinot de Nesle
Marc Anselmi
Véronique Seymat
Patrice Cauchetier
Christian Gasc
(to be supplemented)

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4. Workshops and demonstrations

The visit of three workshops is envisaged :

Workshops of the Comédie Française

(to be supplemented)

Maison Malbranche

The Malbranche company specializes in the household linen embroidered using the very top-of-the-range techniques. Techniques almost disappeared today are preserved there. Courses are available. The prize winner will be invited to take part in a 2 hours course to learn a simple embroidery technique. Samples of the Malbranche company up to fifty years old will be shown to him.

The Malbranche company gave its agreement in principle to the project.

Maison Lesage

réserve

The Lesage company specializes in "Haute Couture" embroidery. Very specific techniques are used. The samples stock of the company is very significant. The prize winner will visit the workshops. Samples of the Lesage company up to a hundred years old will be shown to him. (to be confirmed)

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5. Shows

The prize winner will attend three shows during his stay :

a show with the Comédie Française,
a show with the Opera of Paris or Lyon,
a third show " with historical costumes ", to be defined.

For each theater, an appendix gathering the technical details (time, price...) is attached to this document (to be supplemented).

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6. Fabrics gathering

The prize winner will visit the sites of Paris where are gathered many fabric trades, allowing him to see a state of the art in this field :

the flea market of Clignancourt (old fabrics),
the Saint-Pierre market ( great choice),
Paris Left Bank show-rooms (fabric designers).

These visits will give the prize winner the opportunity to gather fabric samples for his report.

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7. Information gathering

For his report, the prize winner will be able to gather an information from :

The Bibliothèque de France,
The above mentioned museums documentation centres

The technical details (time) are indicated in the appendix (to be supplemented).

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Annex

Musée de la Mode et du Textile
01 44 55 57 50
107 rue de Rivoli - Palais du Louvre 75001
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11h to 18 h, Wednesday night up to 21 h, Saturdays and Sundays from 10 h to 18 h, closed on Mondays
Full fare: 35 Francs - reduced tariff: 25 Francs

Documentation Center
Palais du Louvre - 107, rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays, the resource center is opened to the amateurs, researchers and professionals.
Telephone: 01 44 55 58 57. Telefax: 01 44 55 57 59 Contact by telephone
They have information on XVIIIth century. The minimum time to consult is around 2 hours.

Exhibitions

Garde-Robes
Up to 22 October
At the same time homage to the givers and analysis of fashion behaviors, " Garde-Robes" reveals forty donations.
The first part entitled " the rules of the game "defines the very strict vestimentary codes established throughout the XVIIIth and XIXth centuries, basis of the xxth century aesthetic tendencies.
The " Gallery of portraits ", second part of the exhibition, underlines individualities, clarifies their calculated affinities as much that their spontaneous desires.
Lumières
Opening approximately mid-November
Send a fax to the press department to have more infomation when available : Press department of the Union centrale des arts décoratifs
Sophie d'Hérouville, Bénédicte Colpin
Telephones: 01 44 55 58 78 - Telefax: 01 44 55 57 93
e-mail: presse@ucad.fr

Musée de la Mode et du Costume Galliéra
01 47 20 85 23
telefax: 01 47 23 38 37
10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie 75116 Paris
Open : 10h to 18h everyday except mondays.
Fare : 45 F

Librairy
On appointment: Tuesday 10h to 13h and 14h to 17h30 Wednesday - Thursday - Friday from 10h to 13h Contact by telephone
They have information on XVIIIth century. One can come to consult it : 2 hours with possibly a meeting with the person in charge.

Sur rendez-vous :

Exhibitions

Mutations mode
from 1960 to 2000 up to 30 july
Mode et coton
Beginning mid-october
Should cover the XVIIIth century (Indian fabrics)

Musée de la Toile de Jouy
01 39 56 48 64
54 rue Charles de Gaulle 78350 Jouy en Josas
Open : 11h to 18h everyday except Mondays
Fare : 25 F

Exhibitions

Jouy à tire d’aile
From 16 June to 15 October
Next exhibition more than month after.

Musée Historique des Tissus (Lyon)
04 78 38 42 00
telefax: 04 72 40 25 12
34 rue de la Charité 69002 LYON
Open : from 10h to 17h30 everyday except Mondays
Fare : 30 F , temporary exhibition not included.

Exhibitions
There are a permanent exhibition and temporary exhibitions (on topics related to fabric or decorative arts).
From 12 May to 13 August : Goldsmithery (decorative Arts)

Les voix (voies ?) de la soie
On the costumes of opera (with Opera de Paris, Opera de Lyon and perhaps Comédie Française) In relation to the biennial dance event.
From approximately September 15^th.
Call Mrs. Rouannet, in charge of communication for more information.

Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes (Mulhouse)
Telephone : 03 89 46 83 00
Telefax: 03 89 46 83 10
14 rue Jean Jacques Henner 68100 Mulhouse
03 89 46 83 11 administrative: service : 3 rue Poincaré 68100 Mulhouse
03 89 46 83 14 : commercial service
03 89 46 83 01 : museum shop 14 rue Jean Jacques Henner 68100 Mulhouse
03 89 46 83 02 : documentation service
Open : 10h to 18h everyday
Fare : 36 F
There is a librairy.

Exhibitions
There are a permanent exhibition and a temporary exhibition.

Fortunes de Provence
Pricked and printed covers.
Up to 3 September
Vies privées
Du 7 octobre au 2 septembre 2001

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